The end of the world as we have know it

 This is Bob blogging. I realized in looking back through my posts that I haven't been forthcoming with that information and I don't know why. 

Today we had a relatively short stage from Hospital de Orbiga to Astorga. We also left the Meseta behind and entered the Galician foothills. For ten days the high central plain of Spain was our environment and now, nothing much is flat. As Phil highlighted yesterday, Orbigo is the site of great chivalrous honor. The stage was an opportunity to reconnect with several individuals and groups we have met along the way. We had some wonderful chats with many different people as we walked along. My goodness, the time passes much more quickly that way.

Astorga is the site of the historical Roman Catholic Church's power in northwestern Spain. The Bishop was here and this is where St. James (the 23rd) came on pilgrimage in the 10th century and started this whole craze of marching to Santiago (St. James) as a mendicant. The cathedral is interesting, but after Burgos and León, no great shakes.

Next to the cathedral is a Bishop's palace designed and built by Gaudi, the famous Spanish Architect. It is quite amazing and worth visiting - as compared to the Cathedral.

The cathedral has an incredible collection of Bishop's garments, crooks, processional crosses, retableaus, etc. It is a great place to come and study the trappings of the church, the artistry of the church, the grandure of the Bishopric, etc, but not a good place to come and be amazed by the spirit of the church.

Along the walk today was a very long (for the Camino) segment with no town or opportunity to stop for coffee and treats or sandwiches. Suddenly, we stumbled across a wayside caravan run be refugees from hte hippie culture of the late 60's. They were all young and there was a sign (in Spanish) that said: "Take what you need, relax your tiredness and leave what you don't need along with enough to help us keep this alive.

There was coffee, teas, fruit, organic cereals and munchies, lots of paisley and comfortable couches. A Big Sur roadside stop if ever I've stumbled into one. Phill even got to strum on a guitar. That location felt more honest and nurturing than everything we saw at Astorga around the Bishop's regalia and domicile.

Tomorrow we head out on one of the most challenging stages of the Camino. We will climb steadily through 18 miles up 1500 ft to Foncebadon. These are the times that try men's souls.