When pilgrims went (or were sent) on pilgrimage to Compostela historically, they were mendicants and went from church to church accepting alms from the people and orders they found along the way. The modern way is not much like that, and many people of northern Spain serve the pilgrims for their livelihood. For those who choose to make this pilgrimage, we pay for food, lodging, coffee - and on rest days - laundry and sundries.
Today we had our second rest day of the trip, this one in Burgos. Our hotel - hardly pilgrim fare - is a three star hotel on the Plaza de Santa Maria, directly in front of one of the most magnificent cathedrals of Europe. The cathedral of St. Mary was constructed starting in 1221 and expanded and embellished in the 15th century. it is very large and ornate. The embellishment was likely funded by spoils returned from the new world and gold retablos adorn all of the many chapels surrounding the principal nave and transept.
The gothic design allows for an impressive height and height to width ratio which compels the worshiper to gaze upward in all locations of the structure. The attached monastery is amongst the largest and most extensive I have seen and I've been in many of the major cathedrals of Europe. The open framework of the spires and buttresses is awe inspiring given their age. If ever you visit Burgos, it is more than worth the visit. Oh, if you can show a pilgrim credential, it is also half price!
We are all a bit beat up but tomorrow is a very long day (32 km) and we are relishing the break from our walking. It was also a chance to do housekeeping. Phil and I had laundry duty today, and all was accomplished so we have clean bags to travel with for the next week. Our next rest day will be in Léon along with our next huge cathedral. Of course, the real gem is the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela at the end of the trail in 3 weeks.
We've had good meals to celebrate our rest as well, so, tomorrow we head off fat and happy... Bob
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